Danielle Romeril
As our class interviewed Danielle Romeril about her clothes and advertisement methods, we wrote down the main features which she said was very important for her brand and her garments. Notes:
Tell a story collection a concept on narrative.
References for inspiration to Danielle is Jackie Nickerson cold farm series.
She uses traditional formal portrait photographic.
Promotion should be clear but not minimal.
Casting for poster campaign choose someone who is not too pretty because that's not her brand. Someone who is not thin because she doesn't want to promote unhealthy things in women. Not men for a model.
Casting is not too sext but not too masculine but not too feminine.
Brand target is 25 to 35 years old therefore casting is not too young. clear and fresh, unique face.
For references the best girl for Danielle thing usually opens the show of her presentation at LFW.
Customer of the brand is 50% from Asia, 25% from the UK, 25% from the US. therefore It is nice to put inspiration from our own countries. and casting can be a girl from all over the world.(white, black, asian girl)
Capturing and portraying textures is important as her works about detail find something that perfects her body of work.
Hair make up she prefer natural and clean.
We decided to create campaign that follows these factors Danielle Romeril values / dislikes and respect what Danielle Romeril's intention but express our identity and create new thing which doesn't exit yet.
SS 2016
Reappropriated garments. Unexpected textures. Mismatched patterns and off key combinations. Romeril’s spring/summer 2016 protagonist has an improvised beauty that is at once elegant and undone.
Twin inspirations proved a Jackie Nickerson photographic series documenting African farmers in their work attire and two shots by Viviane Sassen – one entitled PARADISE LOST, from which the collection takes its name and another that in uenced its verdant colour palette.
Silhouettes are asymmetric and layered; palm prints come collaged with organdie check, draped dresses feature printed inserts while knotting and uted sleeves lend volume and depth.Separates are conceived in cutwork cotton layered over muslin and a jacquard embroidery resembling a rippling mass of owers seems to oat beneath a sheer overlay.
Romeril’s raw aesthetic is balanced by a lightness of touch and elevated with sophisticated construction; embellished showpiece dresses are conjured from hand-cut thermoplastic film mounted on silk organza or embroidered with the legend PARADISE LOST like dishevelled badges of honour.
Above the image, Danielle said she likes the model. Not sext not pretty unique and fresh face.
Above the image she said this image can be commercial. If she wears bigger coat, probably can be less commercial.
Also I can see from Danielle's website, she likes traditional portrait photographic as she explained to us in the class. Not dramatic, but clean and emphasise a structure. When doing I've considered the background and set design, how might that influence and help communicate the concept of the collection this is good example for it.
This collection was influenced by Jackie Nickerson cold farm series which is documenting African farmers and Viviane Sassen paradised rest. About set design, reference and to have influence impact on how the garment and collection is perceived. I can see from this set design, how set design do help communicate the concept.
Even the photographics were taken in a studio however the depth of set design create dynamic landscape like Jackie Nickerson cold farm series.
Danielle likes stylings to be balanced and clean. not too crazy and extravagant. For styling, We have to focus on detail and craftsmanship. and think about how with the collection be portrayed?
AW 2016
A portrait of Isabel de Valois, Consort of King Philip II of Spain; embroideries made by hand; futuristic fabrics; historical costume; the football scarf; the graphic stripes of a cycling jersey; the volume of a sixteenth century sleeve.
Throw in the free spirits of the Dutch 80s cult nightclub Studio Paradiso, and you have the Danielle Romeril AW16 girl.
Inspired my image with creating lines to infer different things in the concept. It is interesting to see how translate 80's cult disco nightclub to 16th century fashion and art and graphic elements futuristic fabrics. From this collection, Im learning how the colours affect to understanding the concept. how the colour is important to communicate the concept to the viewers. Shape of the clothes express historical things, colour and set design express futuristic and disco atmosphere. When we think about the colour, also we have to think about which colours is following to the concept of AW 2016. I can see the models for this collection are thin and slim, quite tall with good interesting not too pretty face.
A portrait of Isabel de Valois, Consort of King Philip II of Spain
Traditional portrait photography is always using a chair as a prop. therefore we decided to use a chair as a prop. Also the concept of this collection is 80's disco so we bough a chair which is bright blue and white and pop.
We decided to use our of the cloth which is the above image from this collection. It is because the colour is very beautiful through photographic. We are going to use bright light like these above pictures therefore the cloth should be bright colour rather than light colour.
AW 2015
Drawing from something desolate to make something delicately determined, Danielle Romeril explores the idea of a dystopian future for Autun/Winter 2015 but not in the traditional sense of the idea.
Entitled Survive, the collection imagines a world in which you can’t buy anything anymore and instead you have to scavenge and salvage to create new things.
The result Asymmetric tartan skirts edged in leather laced scales (made using odoshi, the ancient Japanese technique used to create protective armour for Samurai); flocked lace cropped tops; couture-shaped corded velvet dresses; tech quilted jackets and coats; and blanket-wrapped silhouettes for clothing hybrids.
This warrior’s wardrobe is a balance between being undone, done, feminine and raw, something brutally romantic to be found in the toughness of the great outdoors - and translating this into garments.
This collection highlighted shape is the interesting silhouette. Think about how to recreate as something else or addiction props? For this, this collection shapes have relationship to the set design shapes which both have obvious structure and shape. Set design emphasise the clothes which is perfect for look book images.
SS 2015
Danielle Romeril Spring Summer 2015 The great outdoors; self-sufficiency; living off-grid; base camp: Danielle Romeril’s spring/summer 2015 collection is imagined for a gang of fiercely independent and resourceful girls who live in the wilderness one idyllic summer.
“I was attracted to the idea because it felt quite anti-fashion,” says the designer, who dreamt up the idea on her own wild camping trip. Nostalgic nods to fishing garb and the work of Nineties artist Lucy Orta - her Habitent designs in which garments are a clever combination of clothes and architecture - ensued, combined with an exploration into the technology of adventure equipment and outdoors gear. Introducing a more defined silhouette this season, a sense of pretty-utility underpins the collection: camouflage and black French lace on short, easy dresses toughened up with an (optional) backpack; or those that boast cartridge holder ridges at their waist, flared skirts beneath; khaki hi-tech cotton hunting jackets; insert camo and lace details, and clever fabric combinations (silk organza, thermo plastic tape); and 3-D pockets. The ultimate badge of practicality, here they’re put to fun and innovative use, exaggerated as epaulettes or used to plump out skirt shapes and shorts – and provide an alternative handbag on oversized easy jackets.
Danielle said these two pictures were successful. Look at potential props to the when shooting. How may particular props help compliment the concept of shape of the garments. Addicting these props made these pictures more unique and reminds me Viviane Sassen.
AW 2014
Danielle Romeril’s AW14 collection, is inspired by optical illusions and visual distortion. A 1960’s lenticular print, of a moon landing scene was the starting point for an exploration in extraordinary materials and surface details. Lenticular print is a technique that creates images that change or move as the image is viewed from different angles. These moving images are utilised in fabrics throughout the collection. American sculptor Tim Hawkinson’s work inspired abstracted eye appliqués that delicately catch and hold silk pleats. The collection takes a distorted dot motif that originated in the lenticular prints to decorate dresses, skirts and polo necks with a rubberised appliqué. Lace pockets are trimmed with these ‘moving plastics’ adding a street feel to elegant pleated dresses. Lenticular printed plastics are imbued with a certain nostalgia that pervades through the collection and into the lookbook as we take a trip back to our teenage bedroom.
Danielle said in the class, she hate the cookbook of this collection. It is because It is very girly and feminine. The model has interesting and unique face, but styling and hair make up make her and images girly and feminine.
After understanding what Danielle Romeril prefers to have in her promotion image, we decided to look through her instagram account to see what type of aesthetics she favours and what catches her attention while producing the garments. What appealed to us the most out of her instagram posts were: main colours is always 3 colours for each image. She said she doesn't like feminine and girly style but these 2 years she changes her style. (a few years ago, she've posted lots of girly image) Recently the stylings is unique and genderless but not in a crazy way. It is very helpful to see her instagram what kinds of taste she has and others campaign examples.
Sheila Girling Hannah Westley 759.2 GIR
David Hockney Portrait 759.2 HOC
Ewin Wurm The artist who swallowed the world 759.36 WUR
Gerhard Richer Florence 759.3 RIC
Gerhard Richer 759.3 RIC
Gerhard Richer 2005 759.3 RIC
Gary HUME 759.2 HUM
Photographer
Jackie Nickerson Cold farm
Jackie Nickerson makes photographs that examine identity and the physical and psychological condition of working within a specific environment. Her photographs challenge conventional notions of making portraits and landscapes and offer a more engaged view of her subjects. In each body of work like Farm; Faith; and Ten Miles Round, Nickerson has created a graceful meditation on helping the viewer understand what it is to belong.
link from here
looked at Jackie Nickerson who gives out or focuses on the narrative and dry atmosphere in his work. He is very good at using prop as a styling and unique silhouette of model behind the dynamic landscape. It is interesting that how he plays prop as a styling. Photographs by Jackie Nickerson contain between dry atmosphere and brilliantly coloured that's why It is very attractive for me. Especially I focus on structure of a silhouette and started making sketchbook. While I am making a sketchbook, made a design which can be for a set design. We decided to use this for a set design using tape which express futuristic atmosphere. We both have a back ground of fine art therefore we decided to draw as well according to sketch.
Stylist
Nobuko Tannawa
Nobuko is a fashion stylist and a consultant based in London. She started her career in 2006 as a fashion assistant at Dazed & Confused. In 2015 she joined Tank magazine as the Senior Fashion Editor, and works for various publications and clients.
link from here
She is a Japanese who is a Danielle Romeril's favourite stylist. I didn't know her before this project. I really like how she is playing the colours. Usually she uses 3 main colours on a image. Therefore her stylings is very clean but not too minimal which is like Danielle's brand image. She uses the clothes as normal way which means Danielle is prefer styling the clothes as usual. (ex. T-shirt should be T shirt. Cannot be pant.)
Photographer
Simone Steenberg
Simone Steenberg is a Danish fashion and portrait photographer currently residing in London UK.
Her work explores, in particular, the female subject via portraits, body images, the female gaze and identity. She is hugely inspired by the people she meets and the everyday and likes to find beauty in the mundane. Fusing documentary and fashion aesthetics, her photography very much comes to life through an ‘intimate’ play with the subject; what is revealed in between the two and finally to the viewer.
In 2016 she graduated from London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London with an MA in Fashion Photography and has since been working as a freelancer with a range of clients and publications which includes; Vogue Italia, LOVE magazine, Dazed Digital, Wonderland, Bullett Media, DANSK magazine, Selfridges & Co, The Fader, Paula Knorr, Fyodor Golann, Stefanie Tschirky and People’s Republic of Cashmere.
link from here
References for lighting. We decided use bright light and using fresh like her photographic(also Jurgen Taylor is the most famous photographer of using this fresh technique). No shadow. focus on portrait which is making a model look brighter which gives them a narrative and mysterious atmosphere.
All models attitude on her website and instagram are bold, having confidence and strong and also mysterious. Therefore also we have to require to a model this kinds of attitude. The reason why I like Simon Steenberg is the attitude and posing of the models have a lots of variety in her works. Models in her works have strong gaze and personality and attitude is bold and confidence which is exactly her brand image I think.
Photographer
Robert Mapplethorpe
Robert Mapplethorpe was an American photographer, known for his sensitive yet blunt treatment of controversial subject-matter in the large-scale, highly stylized black and white medium of photography. His work featured an array of subjects, including celebrity portraits, male and female nudes, self-portraits and still-life images of flowers. His most controversial work is that of the underground BDSM scene in the late 1960s and early 1970s of New York City. The homoeroticism of this work fuelled a national debate over the public funding of controversial artwork.
link from here
I went to the exhibition of Robert Mapplethorpe who is one of my favourite photographer at Alison Jacques gallery during the Christmas holiday. I went to his exhibition at ARoS in Denmark in October as well. From the documentary film "Mapplethorpe: Look at the Pictures" , I can see his personality and ambition as an artist. The film suggest to the question of what is beauty, what is art. His photography always express the view from the people who are vogue of gender and sexuality. First, lots of people who were around him said his work is just gay porno and nobody see his work as an art in 70s. He kept suggesting the question through his photography. That's why the models of his photography have such an strong gaze and confidence and something tell to the viewers strong feeling. It is because models want to tell to something to viewers. Actually interacting each other between model and viewer through the photography. The models of his photography can be a muse of her brand image. and also Robert Mapplethorpe took a lots of portrait photography therefore I was looking at his work for references. Might be too strong and deep conceptual meaning for her brand though.
Fabienne Verdier
Fabienne Verdier (b. 1962, Paris, France) is an abstract painter who explores the dynamism of forces in nature, movement and immobility by drawing on her intimate knowledge of techniques and traditions of both Western and Eastern art. As a young art school graduate, Verdier left France for China in 1985 to study the art of spontaneous painting and other Eastern traditions with some of the last great Chinese painters who survived the Cultural Revolution. Her adventure and immersion as an apprentice painter would last nearly ten years, recounted in her 2003 book, ‘Passagère du Silence’. Verdier paints vertically in ink, standing directly on her stretchers, using giant brushes and tools of her own invention suspended from the studio ceiling. Her work combines Eastern aspects of unity, spontaneity and asceticism with the line, action and expression of Western painting.
Verdier’s work has been exhibited extensively in Beijing, Singapore, Taipei, Paris, Rome, Lausanne, Zurich and Brussels, among other cities. In 2011, she was included in an important group exhibition The Art of Deceleration, from Caspar David Friedrich to Ai Wei Wei at the Kunstmuseum in Wolfsburg, Germany. In 2012, the Hubert Looser Foundation of Zurich, having previously commissioned several works, selected Verdier for a group exhibition with Donald Judd, John Chamberlain, Ellsworth Kelly and Cy Twombly in Vienna’s Kunstforum. In 2013 the Groeninge Museum in Bruges, Belgium, held an important solo exhibition of Verdier’s work in conversation with Flemish Primitives such as Van Eyck and Memling. In 2014, she was invited to create an installation of seven works for Köningsklasse II, organized by the Pinakotek der Moderne of Munich, and participated in Formes Simples at Centre Pompidou-Metz in France. In addition to her current painterly research into possible links between music and painting, recent projects include Verdier’s conceptual collaboration with architect Jean Nouvel for the National Art Museum of China project in Beijing.
Fabienne Verdier lives and works in France and Canada.
link from here
short film : http://fabienneverdier.com/db/video/walking-painting/
I went to exhibition of Fabienne Verdier at Waddington Custot. When I saw her art, I was inspired by a lot from her art. She used to live in China 10 years. In Asian countries including China, Japan is vertically structured society. and also our way of thinking is foundation of everything is force of nature. She got inspired by a lot of this way of thinking. And she was looking for what is "life" through her art work in vertically structured society. The action of using the big canvas and big painting brush means she is require using her whole body and panesthesia. It is kind of I can say new language of expression and energy. When I saw her paintings in front of it, I got so much energy from it. Also the video was quite interesting. While she was drawing, She can be part of painting. I can say performance art. I am considering to use this method for this project.
Erwin Wurm Photographic Sculptures
We found the book of Erwin Wurm and she did quite interesting work. the title is "Is it possible to translate embarrassment into art? " Using the board and hiding a part of body express human being can be perfection. We all are not perfect. Because we are human however once we hide some part of ourselves, we can be perfect. This idea is quite simple and very strong impression but the concept is quite negative and we though hiding a part of body is not good for selling the idea of the brand. But idea is very interesting.
Hetty Douglas (colour inspiration)
Douglas is a Peckham based artist interested in subverting and exploring the complexities of relationships and what they mean today. Her works point to the superficiality of relationships and sexuality, but remain deeply personal responses.
link from here
We though her brand image and hand drawing painting doesn't match together. Her brand is more clean and not match with Fine art. then we started looking at the painter who dare like graphic design. Not dramatic, very clean but not minimalistic. Hetty Douglas' work is exactly match with her brand. Some of her drawing is very dramatic and aggressive however lots of her work is also looks like graphic digital design. And the way of using the colour is pop and light colour which is match with her brand image. We are considering to paint which is inspired by her work and that can be part of the shape of model. we didn't use this idea. However we get inspiration of the colours from her works.
Especially above the image, we get inspiration a lot. Since we decided to use red jacket which is from AW 2016 which the concept is the Dutch 80s cult nightclub Studio Paradiso, using orange and blue and white is very match with that concept. Also we wanted to create something which is not exit yet. therefore we decided to put black as well. As her favourite stylists Nobuko Tannawa always uses 3 main colours on a image, we decided to use black and red and blue for this project.